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This course was designed in concert with Louise Buckenham (formerly of the National Gamekeepers’ Organisation) who has huge experience picking up all over the UK and is currently the Head Picker Up on a game shoot in Leicestershire. I am very grateful for her assistance. I am also grateful to Steve Leach of Lammermuir Gundogs, Ricky Maloney of Ribblesdale Labradors, and Frank Walker of Bahnemann Kennels for their input.

We are hoping you will get two things out of this:

1. A complete overview of picking up on game shoots

2. The confidence to go picking up.

You’ll find out just how much enjoyment can be had working your dogs in the field.

If you have any questions as you go please email them to me through the contact page.

THE ROLE OF THE PICKER UP

The team of pickers up is a crucial part of the smooth running of a game shoot. The picker up’s focus is the collection and dispatch of injured and dead game. Injured birds can run when they land and make their collection much more difficult - these are known as ‘runners’. As a picker up performs their function they free up the time the guns would otherwise have to spend looking for shot game. They can therefore make the most of the short daylight hours of winter.

MORAL OBLIGATION

We have a moral and legal obligation to ensure a swift and humane end to an animal’s life. The game we shoot is a food product and we are looking to get it into the human food chain in as good a condition as possible. Meat tastes better with less adrenaline and cortisol in it. These are the stress hormones wounded animals secret into the bloodstream over time. The faster it is dispatched the better it will taste.

PROTECTING THE SPORT OF SHOOTING

The use of game meat as a food product is the principle reason that shooting live quarry is still a legal pastime. Without it the sport is morally indefensible. The picker up’s job is to minimise suffering and to ensure that all shot game enters the food chain in as good a condition as possible.

FINANCIAL IMPORTANCE

A secondary consideration to the moral obligation but still an important one is the fact that many game shoots are run as a business. Each bird shot is worth between £30 and £40 to the shoot business. Collecting 10 birds on a 100 bird bird day is a substantial loss averted for the shoot. It more than covers the wage of the picker up.

A WORKING DAY

Although it is an enjoyable pastime it has to be remembered that this is a job of work. The financial and moral importance has to be taken seriously.

CORRECT ERRORS BUT DON’T TRAIN

A shoot day is not a place to train your dog. Correcting mistakes is fine but don’t ignore the job for which you are being paid.

INJURED BIRDS TAKE PRIORITY

This is a golden rule. Dead birds don’t run and are not suffering. Your primary role is to minimise the suffering of wounded birds as far as you are able. You should deal with runners first.

THE NEED FOR FLEXIBILITY

Different styles of shooting will require different approaches (more on this later). You may be asked to take on other duties and you should be prepared to help. You may be asked to take a particular route to a drive to avoid disturbing another - especially true with partridges. You may be asked to take on another role (more about this shortly). Remember you are there to help the shoot day run smoothly.

SECONDARY ROLES

There are a number of things you may be asked to do as well as work your dogs.

CLICKING SHOTS

Some shoots operate a policy of “200 birds or 600 shots whichever is sooner” ensuring the team of guns try to shoot a cartridge to kill ratio of 3:1. Shoot managers can prove to a poorly performing team that they have seen the game they paid for, even if they couldn’t hit them. Some teams like to know how accurate they were. There is usually more than one clicker operating on a shoot day so an average can be taken. It does not need to be a difficult or onerous task. If you are late to the next drive because you are looking for runners delayed you talk to the other person operating a clicker and catch up to their number after the drive.

BLANKING IN COVER

Occasionally keepers need areas of wood or cover crop walked into the drive they plan to do. This helps concentrate game into the main drive. This could be as little as a warm pit hole that is a favourite for wily old pheasants, or as much as a whole other drive.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRIVEN GAME SHOOTING

DRIVEN GROUSE

Considered by many to be the most exciting of driven game the birds typically fly low and very fast hugging the contours as they go. Shots are taken low in front and low behind. Guns who are on each end of the line of butts - the flanks - will also shoot to the side. Driven grouse are often shot with ‘double guns’ with the loader handing a second gun quickly to the guest after they have fired their first two shots.

The season is August the 12th to December 10th and gun dogs working in the late summer can get very hot so there are welfare considerations to be factored in.

Grouse shooting presents its own safety considerations not often found on other game shoots. This is particularly true as shots are often taken low behind (the ‘back bird’). Pickers up should strongly consider wearing safety glasses as eye protection.

Grouse are completely wild and superbly camouflaged in the heather. When picking up you must sit down in the heather and wear clothing that blends in well with the landscape. You must try not to do anything that will affect how the grouse fly over the guns.

Sometimes there are white marker stakes to indicate the start of the safe zone behind the grouse butts out of range of the guns shooting behind. As many as 40% of the grouse shot may be taken as back birds.

There may well be two horns on a drive towards the end. The first is a signal for the guns to stop shooting in front as the beaters are now in range. The second horn signals the end of the drive. Do not go forward on the first horn. Always ascertain which part of the moor is to be driven next as you don’t want to be picking up in the next drive.

TRADITIONAL PARTRIDGE SHOOTING

Driven over high hedgerows it is especially common in East Anglia. Guns are often standing in sugar beet fields in October and November. Birds can easily be lost under the beet so the picking up team should always sweep behind the pegs after the guns have left the field. (This is good practice even on drillings as birds are often missed by distracted guns).

In very traditional English Partridge shooting guns are stood 22 yards behind a high hedge and they are challenged by speed rather than height. Guns may turn round and take shots out of the back of a covey so pickers up must stand well back out of shot. Although it is not as common as it used to be, partridges are still driven this way on some manors in Hampshire and in East Anglia especially. Most partridges are now driven almost like mini pheasants.

The season starts in September where hot days can again have welfare implications for your dogs. Your care of shot game in higher temperatures is also important as a picker up too. Birds should be given every chance to cool quickly so as not to taint the meat.

HIGH PHEASANT SHOOTING

A specialism of the West Country, Wales, Northern England, and Scotland. Birds can travel very long distances as they are driven off mountainous terrain. As a picker up you may not be in the same valley as the guns. You may not be close enough to see any reaction to shot (we will go deep into birds reaction to shot later). You may have to watch very carefully for signs of injury as they come into your view. (Some dogs have an exceptional ability to judge this.) You may be able to pick up during the drive and you may have to cover a lot of ground.

Shooting at the very limit of the effective range of a shotgun has become more common in recent years and inexperienced guns, or those with inappropriate kit for this type of shooting may wound more birds than on other types of shoots. A good picking up team is essential for these shoots to operate humanely.

OTHER TYPES OF LIVE QUARRY SHOOTING

WILDFOWLING

Most wildfowlers have their own dogs but if you live near the coast, occasionally you may be asked to accompany someone on a trip to the foreshore. This might be because their own dog is injured, or the request may come from a novice wildfowler who has not yet acquired a working dog. It is a different aspect to the sport of game shooting and an enjoyable one. You might also be asked to pick up on a evening duck flight. This tends to take place inland on flight ponds. Both these scenarios throw up issues of which you need to be aware.

Dogs can tire easily in water, particularly in strong tidal currents. Prevent your dog from jumping into water which may contain hidden fence posts or similar obstacles. Of course never send your dog to retrieve across iced ponds.

PIGEON SHOOTING

Again, pigeons shooters sometimes need assistance picking up although many take their own dogs with them. You should be aware of the fact that pigeon feathers are easily dislodged and can swamp a dogs mouth. There may be a risk of putting off young dogs from retrieving if they find it unpleasant to have a mouthful of feathers that are difficult to dislodge.

TEAMWORK & LIAISON

THE SHOOT CAPTAIN / LANDOWNER

Very often the shoot captain and the landowner are one and the same, but not always. They are often the top of the chain of command on a shoot day in conjunction with the Head Keeper. Your instructions will usually come from them.

THE HEAD KEEPER

You will usually be paid and thanked by the Head Keeper. Changes in instructions from the beginning of the day, or alterations in drive management can happen because of a change of wind direction. These changes will be decisions made by the Head Keeper and will almost certainly affect your positioning on the drive.

THE CHIEF PICKER UP

Often the most experienced member of the picking up team will be given a radio. They will then relay instructions from the shoot captain or Head Keeper. If it is a large shoot it is likely that all the members of the picking up team will have radios.

UNDERKEEPER

The Under Keeper will often be running the beating line (more on this later). If the shoot is large enough to employ Under Keepers the Head Keeper may well be with the guns all day.

Under Keepers may also issue instructions on behalf of the Head Keeper.

THE GUNS

The guns will be paying customers on more commercial shoots but on private shoots they will be the guests of the host. They are always the focus of any driven shooting day. All other roles on the shoot day are designed around them. That does not mean to say that their enjoyment is more important than anyone else’s. Nor does it mean that their role is more important than others (no beaters, no birds for example) but the overall aim is to get sporting birds over the guns and into the bag and they are the ones pulling the trigger.

THE BEATERS

As a picker up you may never see the beaters the whole day. They may be gone from the yard when you arrive sometimes blanking in cover to the first drive, and they will probably have gone home by the time you get back after the last drive. Their job is to control the flow and direction of game over the guns. You may also see flag men on the flanks keeping birds in the drive. Sometimes they will also act as stops at the front of the drive to keep the game from running forward our of the drive. Occasionally you will see a flag man at the front of the drive encouraging birds to gain height before crossing the line of guns - this is not abnormal.

FELLOW PICKERS UP

You will almost always be part of the team of pickers up. We are all proud of our dogs, but don’t tempt fate by going on about how amazing your dog is or it will almost certainly go wrong shortly afterwards!

It’s good manners to rotate the strike - don’t hog the centre of the drive every time. Volunteer to go the longest distance occasionally too. If another picker up happens to be picking a runner in the middle of the drive (perfectly permissible and a subject we will discuss) they may not see another wounded bird from their position. It’s fine to ask if they saw it. Remember - you are working as part of a team.

EMPLOYEE INSURANCE COVER

Normally pickers up are paid and therefore employed. Your employer (the shoot) needs Employer’s Liability Insurance cover to the tune of £5 million minimum.

BASC COVER VS SHOOT EMPLOYEE LIABILITY

If you are picking up recreationally, not as paid employment, BASC’s membership provides 3rd party insurance cover for you and your dog. This does not cover vet bills (at the time of writing). It covers you if someone else sues you because your dog caused an accident. (Full details can be checked with your regional BASC office).

Remember - if you are being paid you are an employee and your employer needs to have adequate insurance cover.

COMMUNICATION & ETIQUETTE

THE BRIEFING

You will normally get a briefing at the start of the day. This may come from the shoot captain, the Head Keeper or it might come from the chief picker up. It may be a formal briefing for everyone involved in the day, or it maybe just you pickers up with the guns briefed separately. This briefing gives an outline of the drives. It should also cover any special instructions - any livestock to be aware of, or locals who might be upset with the shoot activity.

LUNCH

The briefing should also outline whether the plan is to shoot through or whether you will be stopping for lunch. It may be that everyone involved in the day will have lunch together. Normally it is ‘bring your own’. You may be asked to have a drink with the guns at elevenses after you have finished your sweep at the end of the drive.

RUINING THE NEXT DRIVE

You should pay close attention to the briefing. If the drives are listed it is a good idea to take a picture on your phone of the running order for the day. This way you can avoid going into a another drive to find wounded bird that they are planning to do next. If it is next then the ‘keepers will probably be able to pick it with their dogs as they do the drive. You should of course inform them that there is one to look for. Drives can change if the wind direction changes and if you are in any doubt it’s always best to ask.

TALKING TO THE GUNS

Sometimes good guns will come and find you to tell you what they are missing. The best guns, the ones who really know what they are doing on a shooting field, will tell you if it is a partridge or pheasant, a cock or a hen and the rough location of where it came down. They might tell you how hard it was hit, if they don’t you can ask. This information will give you an idea of what to look for and how far it might have gone.

If they tell you whether it had a leg down it can let you decide if you have picked the right bird or not.

You should not comment on their ability to shoot.

GUNS WHO COUNT

The very best guns know how many they have shot. They know if they are missing any around the peg. This makes sweeping the pegs much easier as a picker up. It also makes it more important not to steam in and pick birds that they have killed cleanly. It wastes their time if they are looking for game that has already been picked. As we have already discussed in Part 1 your principal concern at the end of a drive is wounded game, not dead game.

GUNS WITHOUT DOGS

These guns will obviously need more help than others. Again don’t assume though - let them pick their game by hand, they may also be counting.

GUNS WITH THEIR OWN DOGS

This is a contentious issue - if there is a source of conflict on a shoot day this is usually where it develops. Guns with their own dogs MUST be allowed to work them, even if they are not much good at the job. You should have yours under control and wait to be asked to help if you have no runners to deal with. This will mark you out as a picker up who knows what they are doing and the guns will appreciate it. Sometimes a guns’ non-shooting partner with a dog will ask to stand with the pickers up and help. They may have no idea what they are doing or they maybe highly experienced - don’t be too quick to judge. Allow these non-shooting partners to sweep the pegs too. Explain why you are dropping back if you need to pick wounded game. Make sure they are not left behind as everyone moves off to the next drive as they may have no radio.

INFORMING THE GUN YOU FOUND IT

Do it quietly if the opportunity presents itself - most guns appreciate it. Good guns will ask you how you got on and if you found it. What you must not do is shout it from the footsteps of the gun bus. It looks self-congratulatory and may also embarrass the gun.

APOLOGISING FOR A MISTAKE

If your dog runs in and picks a dead bird, apologise to the gun in question. Most will appreciate the apology. Again even if they haven’t got a dog with them they may be counting what they have shot to make sure they pick all their birds at the end of the drive. Don’t let it happen again.

DOGS IN SEASON

If you have a bitch in season - leave it at home. It can seriously distract other dogs from their job and covering sprays that are commercially available are largely ineffective. The same applies to dogs with Kennel Cough - it is highly infectious so leave it at home.

GUN’S MISTAKES

There are degrees of seriousness here. Some of the mistakes that are made can be shooting a hen pheasant on a ‘cocks only’ shoot; shooting an English partridge when they have been asked not too; or shooting a protected species - for which there is no excuse. Always refer issues like this up the chain of command for the shoot captain or Head Keeper to deal with.

UNSAFE SHOOTING

There are no excuses for this. This should be referred up the chain of command immediately.

REACTION TO SHOT

HOW SHOT ACTUALLY KILLS

Learning how birds react to shot and what it means is an important skill to develop. We need to be aware of how a shot brings about a quick death. More importantly we need to know what to look out for when it doesn’t. As we noted in Part 1, wounded birds are our primary concern.

CATASTROPHIC DROP IN BLOOD PRESSURE

This is what we are looking to bring about when we pull the trigger. This will cause the most humane death of the bird possible. As a result we will get the best quality food product possible into the human food chain.

CESSATION OF BRAIN ACTIVITY

This is also desirable as unconscious birds feel no pain and fewer stress hormones are released into the blood stream and therefore into the meat.

THE HEART

The image above will give you some idea of the relative size of the heart. When shot passes through the heart it brings about the catastrophic drop in blood pressure we require. You will notice the target is relatively small and remember we are trying to hit this and other vital areas with 3 or four pellets out of a shot string doing 900 mph when the bird is doing 40 mph, 35 metres away. This is why we sometimes wound unintentionally and pickers up are vital.

THE LUNGS

Another vital organ, significant damage to them with cause a lack of oxygenated blood circulating in the bird’s system and death will be as a result of hypoxia. Lung shots alone can cause a particular reaction that we shall look at later.

THE BRAINSTEM

Damaging the brainstem will of course bring about the cessation of brain activity we need for a quality food product.

THE SPINAL CORD ABOVE THE VITAL ORGANS

Damage to this will mean that the bird will come down immediately, although death may not be instantaneous and it may need dispatching.

THE MAJOR BLOOD VESSELS

You can see the major blood vessels emanating from the top of the heart in the image above. Any rupture of these by a pellet passing through them will cause the drop in blood pressure required for a quick, humane death. Shotgun pellets do not have the velocity of rifle bullets therefore they need to pass through major blood vessels and organs to cause the catastrophic drop in blood pressure we are looking to effect.

WOUNDING

Wounding does happen in all forms of game shooting. It becomes more likely at range or when using inappropriate equipment for the quarry or the style of shooting. It is our primary concern as pickers up.

COMMON REACTIONS

TOWER BIRDS

This is a bird that flies apparently normally before it slows, gains height, and collapses to the ground, dead. Birds can sometimes be seen to flinch when shot, although it can be difficult to see any outward reaction. This rise, fall, and collapse happens because a pellet has gone through the lungs and they gradually fill with blood. A lack of oxygenated blood in the system, hypoxia and cerebral anoxia, are the cause of death. The gun who shot at it may be completely unaware that they hit the bird and if you are standing far enough back these birds will normally collapse in front of you. There is no need to pick these immediately as they will normally be dead. Try to mark them to a point on the landscape to remember their location.

WING TIPPED

This can sometimes be seen with primary feathers on the wings at odd angles. Birds might set their wings as normal flight is impeded. They are likely to run but not likely to take off again. Birds with broken wing bones close to the body but with no other damage can appear to collapse as normal flight is impossible. These birds are highly likely to run and must be watched and if practical, retrieved as soon as possible.

LEG DOWN

This is a bird that is visibly trailing a leg in flight. It may or may not run. If this is the only injury they sustained they are likely to get up and fly again in the presence of a gundog.

ERRATIC FLIGHT

Erratic flight or a wobbling motion is often caused by a pellet severing the spinal cord below the vital organs. It is the inability to control the the tail feathers and is most commonly encountered when pigeon shooting. They are unlikely to run but may attempt to fly again.

EYE SHOT

This is a bird that flies higher and higher in a circular pattern. It is caused by the bird only being able to see out of one eye. It’s ability to fly has not been impeded. The birds need careful watching as they can go a long way and is often encountered when pigeon shooting.

HUMANE DISPATCH

This is a skill that a picker up must acquire. It is our moral and legal obligation to minimise suffering.

WILD MAMMALS (PROTECTION) ACT 1995

This act makes it illegal to cruelly kick, beat, stab, impale, burn, crush, or drown a wild animal (birds included) unless the killing was reasonably swift and the animal had been injured or taken in the course of legal shooting or hunting, or it was done as an act of mercy killing.

ANIMAL WELFARE ACT 2006 SECTION 4

UNNECCESARY SUFFERING

A person commits an offence if an act of theirs, or their failure to act, causes an animal to suffer, or the suffering is unnecessary.

The destruction of an animal should be done in an appropriate and humane manner.

PERCUSSIVE STUNNING

‘A Priest’ is a short length of stick, antler or metal sometimes with a weighted end. The name comes from the admission of the last rites in the Catholic Church. It is the most common method used to dispatch an animal. The aim is to render the animal unconcious quickly and destroy the cranium in the process. This leads to a system shutdown while the bird is unconscious. It can also be done with a walking stick.

CERVICAL DISLOCATION

Breaking the neck and severing the spinal cord can be done by hand or it can be done by using a humane despatch tool (above). There is no loss of conciousness first and it can be difficult to perform well by hand without experience. It also makes hanging game more difficult. What we must avoid is swirling birds around to break their neck - it is inhumane. These tools can be used but are arguably less humane than using a priest and percussive stunning.

DIFFICULT SPECIES TO DESPATCH

Ducks and Geese are much harder to despatch humanely as wildfowl typically have a stronger bone structure than game birds. Several accurate hits with a priest is usually effective.

LIGHT-BONED SPECIES

Woodcock, Snipe and pigeon can present a specific issue. Using a priest can sometimes sever the head making hanging difficult. For these smaller species a hard pinch under the wings with your thumb and index finger will despatch the bird usually in under 10 seconds by restricting the blood flow from the heart and lungs. This is much harder on larger, stronger species however so should be reserved for these lighter-boned species.

CARE OF DEAD GAME

HANGING GAME

It’s important to hang game before it gets to the game cart or chiller. This allows the process of rapid cooling to begin. The ultimate aim is to get the body temperature down to 4 deg celsius. This is best achieved with free flowing air around the birds. Birds piled up in a vehicle will ‘sweat’ even on cold days. On warmer days the meat can quickly go green and be rendered unfit for human consumption. This cool chain begins the moment the bird is picked.

GAME CARRIERS AND GAME BAGS

Game carriers promote the free flow of air around the birds and the game begins to cool whereas game bags do not. However game bags do shield the scent from dogs while they are working so they are not distracted by game already picked. If you are working into a good wind then carriers will have no detrimental effect but if the wind is at your back bags may be your preferred option.

GAME HYGIENE

Good shoot management should avoid causing game to fall into slurry pits or outdoor pig units. If they do they should be collected (safely) but kept separate from fresh, clean game, in a separate tray if you are using trays. The aim is always to get the best possible food product into market.

PEGGED BIRDS

Pegged birds are those that are pinned or picked by a dog despite not having been shot. They may have come from the drive and their efforts in flight will have left them needing recovery time before flying again. We must avoid picking them as they are not what we are there for. Dogs noses should be able to distinguish between the scent of an un-shot bird and that of a shot bird. The shot string will leave the scent of burnt powder on the bird and there will likely be the scent of blood on it also. If a young dog has early success in picking un-shot game it maybe a habit ingrained for life. Some experienced pickers up will wait at the end of the drive for tired but un-shot birds to lay up and recover. The bird’s flight muscles will gradually dispose of the adrenaline and lactic acid built up from exertion. Then with an experienced older dog they will hunt the area to clear it of un-shot game as the recovered birds fly off to find other cover. After that whatever is left is highly likely to be injured and less experienced dogs will be worked to sweep.

If mistakes happen and birds are pegged accidentally by less experienced pickers up, we don’t include them in the bag for which the guns are paying. They will however be the best birds for the table. If one is picked one way to mark them out is to pass a 5 cm feather through the nostrils. Not only will they be easily identified for the bag, but also they can be selected to be given to the guns at the end of the day.

ABNORMALITIES

It is important to take account of any signs of disease in the game collected. This could be cysts on the breastbone for example. Red Grouse can suffer from a specific disease known as ‘Bulgy Eye’. Sometimes birds are obviously thin with no weight to them, and occasionally they can smell rank. Any heavily damaged birds from shot, or from landing on fence lines for example should still be collected as should any long dead game identifiable by their sunken eyes. They are not fit for consumption but will need proper disposal. They should be pointed out to the person managing the game cart for the shoot or the ‘Keeper.

CANINE WELFARE

NUTRITION

Some pickers up like to divide their dog’s daily food intake into a morning and evening feed ensuring the dog has sufficient energy for the whole day’s work.

It is unwise to feed immediately before working as it raises the risk of a dog twisting its gut. This is also known as ‘bloat’ or ‘gastric torsion’ (more information here). If your dog has a distended stomach it is an immediate trip to the vet as time is a factor.

The dog should be attended to first at the lunch break. Some feed a small amount of dry kibble, tripe or chicken at lunch as there is time for it to move through the system. Plain digestive biscuits can be useful but chocolate digestives and Mars Bars are not recommended. (Chocolate is poisonous to dogs in high quantities so it’s sensible to avoid it in low quantities.)

A good evening meal after shooting is important. Some like to add a warm gravy to it to avoid a tired dog after a wet day getting a cold shock to the system. If it has been a wet day some kind of drying dog coat at lunch and on the way home can be helpful, particularly for smaller spaniel breeds.

HYDRATION

It goes without saying that any dog should have access to plenty of potable water as they need it. A 5 litre sized mineral water bottle is a useful size to refill. You can take several if you are not able to refill one at lunch and you will need a bowl. Large camping water containers are a little unwieldy. Depending on the workload of the dog and the temperature in which they are working, some (unflavoured) human electrolyte tablet added to the water can replace lost salts.

DOG INSURANCE

BASC offers insurance for working dogs as a bolt on to the main insurance cover. Some other providers may not cover working dogs so it is best to check.

VET BILLS - FAIR COMPENSATION

It is ok to ask the shoot manager about fair compensation for any vet bills incurred while working on the shoot. Even if the answer is ‘no’ at least you know where you stand.

JUMPING OUT OF TRUCKS

The steep drop from the back of some pick-up trucks can damage a dogs shoulders and shorten the working life of a gun dog. It should be avoided if possible. Be aware of the gaps between tailgate and truck beds too as they can trap feet. Steps on gun buses with gaps at the back of them can break a dog’s leg.

FLOWING WATER / JUMPING INTO WATER

Positioning of the dog and handler can help enormously. Judge the direction and speed of flow. Try to stand downstream and near slow flowing water if possible. Always assess possible submerged hazards before sending the dog. Birds on iced water should not be picked by a dog. This should be passed up the chain of command and they should be picked later with the use of a boat later.

RESERVOIRS

Farm reservoirs also present a risk. They can have very slippery liners prevent that dog from getting out of the water. Leaning in to rescue a dog puts you in danger of falling in and suffering the same fate. Radios and mobile phones do not work after immersion in water so you may be unable to call for help. Again it’s best to refer it up the chain of command and to retrieve these birds by boat. These issues should have been considered and avoided by good shoot management.

ELECTRIC FENCES

A small pocket electric fence tester is a useful tool. After receiving a shock from an electric fence some dogs are put off going through any fence at all.

DOG THEFT

This is on the increase and has been for some years. Always be mindful that shoot days are sometimes targeted. This is especially if dogs are left in vehicles outside pubs or during lunch.

CANINE 1ST AID

COMMON SENSE

Common sense is vital to avoid injury in the first place. Avoid allowing your dog to jump barbed wire, lift them over or use the nearest gate. Most dogs will get some sort of injury during their working lives. It is unfortunate that common sense can desert us when we are confronted an animal in distress or the sight of lots of blood. Try to think clearly.

1ST AID KIT

This can be part of the human 1st Aid kit you should be carrying. Some dedicated canine 1st Aid kits are available (BASC offer one). Full adivce on canine 1st Aid in the field can be found here. A booklet is available from BASC too.

VET CONTACT DETAILS

It is common sense to have these on your phone. If you are picking up away from your normal vet research the closest ones available and have their details handy.

MINOR BLEEDS & CUTS

Finding them can be the first problems. When located wash it well with bottled water or a saline solution. Vaseline can act as a barrier to dirt and can stem bleeding. A ‘tubey grip’ or a pair of stockings with the toe cut off can be useful in the event of ear damage. Placed over the dog’s head with a gauze or bandage on the cut side it keeps the dog’s ear tight against the head to stem the flow of blood.

MAJOR BLEEDS OR CUTS

These will clearly require a trip to the vet. A rolled up towel can act as a pressure bandage. You should try to have crepe self-adhesive bandages in your kit this is also known as ‘vet wrap’ and many stables have them for wrapping horses legs. Once a bandage is applied do not be tempted to look - get to a vet. Avoid using the metal staples that close wounds - you may not have cleaned the wound effectively and you may well seal in infection.

WIRE CUTTERS

These are especially useful for cutting barbed wire. If you are picking up in an area where there is livestock chances are barbed wire will feature. The more a dog struggles the more harm they can do themselves, especially if they are tangled in it. You do not want to have to wait 30 minutes for someone to fetch some wire cutters from the farm workshop.

MUZZLE

Frightened dogs bite, as do dogs in severe pain - even if they have never bitten before. A muzzle can be made out of a bandage. Never be afraid to use one, especially if you are trying to free a dog from barbed wire.

THORNS

Even a minor limp can indicate a thorn. They are hard to see visually though through mud on dark pads. It may be more instructive to feel. If the thorn is broken off and deeply embedded then you may need the assistance of a vet.

BROKEN CLAWS

A pair of large nail clippers can trim these so they cause less irritation.

TAIL DAMAGE

Mud water and brambles can lead to dermatitis and wounds. Cover the effected area with lots of vaseline at the first sign of bleeding. Wash with saline or an antiseptic solution daily. Cover with vaseline again before the next outing. In the field, a piece of bike inner tube and a split cartridge case can go over sterile gauze from the 1st aid kit to keep it in place. The whole can then be bound in vet wrap.

ALLERGIC REACTIONS / ADDER BITES

Antihistamines such as ‘Piriton’ can be used to reduce the effects of nettle and wasp stings. They do not work for Adder bites. A bite from an Adder is an immediate trip to the nearest vet as time is critical. Adders are more commonly found on grouse moors in late summer. They are found all over the UK, but are usually in hibernation during the colder months. (Dog handlers are also at risk.)

TICKS

Especially common on grouse moors or in areas with high sheep or deer densities. Early season in warm weather ticks will still be active. They can be seen on light coloured dogs. You should use a specialist pair of tick tweezers. Remember you can be bitten too and if you are and you get a bullseye rash you should seek medical advice immediately. Tell them you have been bitten by a tick and that Lyme disease is a possibility.

ROUTINE CHECKS

Get into the habit of checking your dog before feeding. Even large wounds can sometimes be missed with the dog’s adrenaline and natural pain threshold masking any obvious discomfort. Any surgery your dog requires will not take place on a full stomach. Routine checking for ticks and thorns should be come second nature.

LEGAL ISSUES

To request the information in this section please email me.

It will cover the following topics:

LEGAL EXEMPTIONS FOR WORKING DOGS

WORKING DOGS - NO EXEMPTIONS

PAYMENT & TAX OBLIGATIONS

TRESSPASS

THE GAME ACTS 1831

TRESSPASS ON LAND BY ANIMALS

RETRIEVING BEYOND THE BOUNDARY

SHOOT MANAGEMENT TO AVOID CONFLICT

EQUIPMENT

The safety and security of your dogs is of course paramount. A car dog box such as the one above addresses both these issues. In the event of a road traffic accident your dog is less likely to be injured if they are in a dog box. Not only that but if your dog is loose in the car in the event of a head on collision at say 40mph, your dog suddenly becomes a lethal object moving forwards at 40mph towards the back of your head. Another point of interest in this image is the mat that covers the gap between the tailgate and the car body. As we noted earlier, if uncovered this gap has the potential trap a dog’s foot.

Kit you may want to consider might include the following:

Potable water
1st Aid kit
Game carriers
Game bag
Wire cutters
Your lunch
Dog whistle
Dog leads
A good waterproof jacket
Rip resistant waterproof leggings
Gloves
Hand sanitiser
Beater’s flag
Stick
Priest
Ventilation window locks
Your phone and charger
Vet details
Safety glasses
Ear defenders

Much of a kit list is personal preference and common sense but there are some items above that may need more explanation. Ear defenders are necessary if you are ever asked to stand with a gun. It is not a common occurrence but is does sometimes happen and you need to be flexible. Gloves some feel are useful because there is often a lack of hand washing facilities if lunch is in the field. They also prevent a pheasant’s toe nails or the spurs on a cock bird from wounding you which can cause an infection. The ventilation window locks are the yellow hooks next to the thermos in the above image. They allow you to secure your truck side windows at the same time as allowing ventilation for the dogs. The beaters flag is useful if you are blanking in on a partridge drive or asked to act as a flank while moving into position to pick up.

INTRODUCTION TO PICKING UP ON GAME SHOOTS